The Key to the good life

Cruise ship in port at Mallory Square docks, Key West

I'm on a bike with handlebars as big as a buffalo's horns and I've managed to cycle about halfway down 'North America's longest road'.

Before you break out the bunting at my amazing endeavour, I should tell you that it's taken me less than ten minutes to traverse seven of the 14 blocks that make up Key West's Duval Street and I've only just broken into a sweat.

Duval is, of course, nowhere near the longest street in North America (the honour actually falls to Toronto's Yonge Street) but it's an in-joke locals used to describe the main thoroughfare through Key West as it 'runs all the way from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic'.

OK, so we've established that Key Westians may not have the greatest sense of humour, but these citizens of the self-styled Conch Republic certainly add a sparkle to this little gem at the bottom of the necklace of islands that form the Florida Keys.

Year-round sunshine As I continue my cycle ride through the narrow alleys and winding side streets, it's pretty easy to see what attracted the eclectic mix of 1960s dropouts, Bohemians and holidaymakers to the island.

For Key West has almost year-round dream weather and a laid-back feel that's closer to the Caribbean than the rest of the US.

Hemingway's house in Key West

It's the kind of atmosphere that once drew literary greats such as Tennessee Williams and Ernest Hemingway to the island, before a period of decline in the 1970s was followed by another of regeneration when the gay and lesbian community moved in during the 1980s.

So the streets I'm now cycling around are a beguiling mix of art galleries, bars, restaurants, souvenir shops and gin joints.

My circuitous route around the island takes me past some of the quirkier sites, such as the Maritime Museum – with its amazing collection of recovered treasure including silver bars, heavy gold chains and ship bells – and the shipwreck museum where actors give guided tours recalling the days when salvaged cargoes included ivory from Egypt, tobacco from Virginia and bone china from Britain.

Key West Lighthouse

Eventually, I reach Key West Lighthouse. A climb to the top of its 80 steps offers panoramic views back down to Duval Street and Mallory Square.

From here, it's easy to pick out one of the island's main attractions, Hemingway House, where around 60 of the writer's famous six-toed cats still live.

Ocean sunsets A stone's throw away is Hemingway's favourite watering hole, Sloppy Joe's.

So named because ice which used to keep its fresh seafood cool would melt all over the floor in the Florida heat, it's one of the epicentres of a vibrant nightlife scene that starts a good couple of hours before the sun goes down.

Almost the whole island gathers around Mallory Square, crammed with performers and food stalls, at sunset.

The colourful locals believe that sitting with a cold beer and a plate of crab claws as the sun sinks into the Gulf of Mexico is one of North America's greatest pleasures. And this time, I can vouch that they aren't joking.

Norma flew with Virgin Atlantic (08705 747 747, www.virginatlantic.com). Return flights to Miami start from £289. She stayed at the Double Tree Grand Key Resort (www.grandkeyresort.com).

Doubles start from £75 per night. Virgin Holidays (0871 222 1232, www.virginholidays.com) has seven nights in Key West inc flights from £779.

Bikes can be hired from Conch Bike Express (001 305 294 4318) For more on the Florida Keys, visit www.fla-keys.com